paige_soap, Author at Oakhill Vets

COMMON PET POISONS TO AVOID

Did you know that many common household items, that are safe for people, are toxic to pets?

Despite owners’ best efforts, pets’ natural curiosity makes it easy for them to encounter substances that are dangerous to them! By learning about these common pet poisons and the signs of poisoning, you can help to keep your pet is safe.

Never ‘watch and wait’ if you suspect your pet has been poisoned. Act fast and contact the Animal PoisonLine or us for advice immediately. In most cases, the sooner your pet receives treatment, the better their chances of recovery.

HUMAN FOODS

Chocolate and caffeine

Both chocolate (which contains a stimulant called theobromine) and caffeine (found in coffee and tea, energy drinks and supplements/ medication) are poisonous to cats, dogs, ferrets, rabbits, and guinea pigs. The darker the chocolate, the more toxic it is to pets. Signs of poisoning usually appear within one to four hours and include vomiting, diarrhoea, increased thirst and urination, lack of co-ordination, restlessness, tremors, excessive salivating, and high heart rate. Treatment is usually successful.

Grapes, raisins, and currants

Grapes, raisins, currants, and foods containing them, such as cereals and cakes, are toxic to dogs, cats, and ferrets. The most common sign of toxicity is vomiting, usually occurring within 24 hours, followed by lethargy, diarrhoea, lack of appetite, and abnormal drinking or urination. The odds of recovery depend on the quantity consumed and the speed of treatment. With aggressive treatment, recovery is possible, but if kidney damage occurs, it can be life-threatening.

Onions and garlic

Onions, garlic, chives, and leeks are toxic to pets in any form. Ingestion can lead to vomiting, abdominal discomfort, loss of appetite, and diarrhoea, sometimes within 24 hours but more often after several days. With prompt treatment, most pets will recover well.

Salt

Consuming too much salt, present in various sources such as table salt, rock salt, playdough, and bath products, can be harmful to pets. The initial symptom of salt poisoning is vomiting, which can occur within minutes. This is often followed by diarrhoea, lethargy and weakness, excessive thirst and urination, lack of coordination, tremors, and rapid breathing. While most pets recover well with prompt treatment, severe cases can be fatal.

Alcohol

Ethanol, found in alcoholic drinks, hand sanitizer, and mouthwash, is poisonous to pets. Other sources of ethanol poisoning include perfumes and raw fermenting bread dough. Symptoms of ethanol poisoning typically appear within one or two hours and include vomiting, diarrhoea, agitation, lack of coordination, and drowsiness. Most pets recover well with treatment.

Xylitol

Xylitol, also known as birch sugar, is an artificial sweetener commonly found in chewing gum, toothpaste, and some sweet baked goods like biscuits and cakes. It is highly toxic to dogs, causing a rapid drop in blood sugar. Symptoms of xylitol poisoning, which typically appear within one to 12 hours, include disorientation, vomiting, a high heart rate, drowsiness, and seizures. In severe cases, it can lead to liver failure. While most pets recover well with aggressive treatment, liver failure, although less common, can be potentially fatal.

AROUND THE HOUSE

Human medication

Whilst some human medication may be given under veterinary supervision (at the correct dosage), in general human medication is poisonous to our pets. This is because a pet’s body cannot break down certain chemicals found in human medicine, like acetaminophen. As a result, the chemicals attach to the liver and slowly destroy it. Signs of poisoning usually appear within two hours and include vomiting, diarrhoea, increased thirst and urination, loss of appetite, lethargy and weakness, abdominal pain, and rapid or laboured breathing. Early treatment typically leads to a good recovery, depending on the medication ingested, but poisoning can be fatal in severe cases.

Vitamin D

Excessive doses of vitamin D, commonly found in skin creams, cod liver oil, and supplement tablets, can cause poisoning in pets. Symptoms, which usually appear within six to 12 hours, include weakness, vomiting, diarrhoea, increased thirst and urination, and loss of appetite. The chances of recovery vary depending on the severity of the symptoms and how quickly treatment is administered.

Cigarettes and e-cigarettes (vapes)

Nicotine is very harmful to pets. Signs of ingestion typically appear within 15 to 90 minutes and include vomiting, excessive salivation, lack of coordination, tremors, and rapid breathing followed by slower or shallow breathing. Chances of recovery are generally good with prompt treatment.

Household cleaners and DIY products

Most cleaning and DIY products, such as paint and paint thinner, can be dangerous to pets. They can be exposed directly by licking or swallowing a product, or indirectly through contact with their coat, skin, paws, or by inhaling chemical fumes. Symptoms of poisoning include vomiting, increased salivation, lack of coordination, loss of appetite, and lethargy. Most pets respond well to treatment.

OUTDOOR POISONS

Plant bulbs/leaves

The bulbs of many plants, such as hyacinths, bluebells, daffodils, and tulips, contain toxins that are poisonous to dogs and cats. Ingestion can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, and lethargy within a few hours. These symptoms are typically mild, and most pets recover well. However, lilies are particularly toxic to cats and can cause kidney failure, which can be fatal if not treated quickly.

Garden chemicals

Common garden chemicals such as fertilizers and weed killer contain compounds like glyphosate which are harmful to animals. Signs of poisoning can appear within 30 minutes and include excessive salivation, vomiting, diarrhoea, loss of appetite, abdominal pain, lack of coordination, lethargy and eye and skin irritation. Most pets recover well with treatment.

Antifreeze

Antifreeze is poisonous to most animals and even tiny amounts can cause kidney failure and prove fatal. Signs of poisoning can appear in as little as 30 minutes, with symptoms such as vomiting, lack of co-ordination, weakness, seizures, rapid breathing and increased thirst and urination. Antifreeze poisoning can be life-threatening, and immediate treatment is required for the best chances of recovery.

Rat/mouse poisons (rodenticides)

Rodent poisons interfere with blood clotting in animals, and different poisons have different toxicity levels. It can take three to five days to show, which are commonly laboured or rapid breathing, lethargy, weakness, lack of appetite and coordination, and abdominal pain. The recovery rate is good with immediate treatment.

ANIMAL POISONLINE

Run by the Veterinary Poisons Information Service (VPIS), the Animal POISONLine is a 24-hour emergency telephone service dedicated to helping pet owners who are worried their pet may have been exposed to something harmful or poisonous.

They have experience of thousands of toxic substances in all animals and cover everything from human drugs, household and garden products, plants, agricultural chemicals to venomous bites and stings.

Based on the information you provide, their vets and scientists will be able to tell you if you need to go to the vets for immediate treatment, or whether they can save you the trip.

You can call 01202 509000, 24 hours a day if you are concerned about your pet. Calls cost £35 between Monday- Friday 8am to 8pm and £45 at all other times, including bank holidays.

Call the Animal POISONLine

OLD DOG, NEW DIGS

In the same way that humans have different needs as they age, dogs also need certain adaptions to their lifestyle and environment to keep them comfortable as they enter their senior years.

It’s important to keep an eye out for senior dog health conditions, such as arthritis and canine cognitive dysfunction (dog dementia), so that you can adjust things accordingly. Simple changes, focused on making their lifestyle more joint and brain friendly, can make a world of difference to their quality of life, comfort, and overall health.

Just as you would expect the home of an elderly person to look quite different to that of a young person, the home of an elderly dog needs to be set up to meet their changing needs.

DIET

When it comes to food, the focus should be less on what to feed your dog and more on how much and how to serve it. While a diet appropriate for their life stage is important, maintaining a healthy weight has the most significant impact on your senior dog’s health. Keeping your dog trim is crucial, as excess weight greatly increases the risk of joint disease and other health issues.

If your dog needs to lose weight, this can be challenging. Accurate food measurement, reducing treats, and speaking to us are effective strategies.

It’s also important to consider your dog’s comfort and engagement when feeding. A raised feeder can make eating easier for older dogs. Using puzzle feeders or scatter feeding, where food is spread out for your dog to find, can enhance their engagement with eating and stimulate their brain. Over time you can increase or decrease the difficulty of the ‘challenge’ to meet their capability without causing frustration.

ACCESS

Access can involve enabling safe entry or restricting access to dangerous areas. In cases where stairs are steep, it might be best to prevent access entirely. Using a baby gate can prevent falls and offer peace of mind.

Slippery surfaces, such as laminate or tile floors, pose a significant challenge for dogs with arthritis. Even minor slips can cause microtrauma to their joints, leading to cumulative damage. Consider using rugs and runners to provide traction and protect their joints.

Providing ramps or steps to elevated areas like car boots allows your dog to enter and exit safely, reducing the need for jumping. Jumping exerts extra pressure on joints, which can result in damage and pain.

Additionally, older dogs, especially those with dementia, may struggle when furniture and other items are rearranged. Keeping their environment consistent and ensuring clear pathways between spaces can help. Getting down to their level and having a look around can be eye-opening and might help you spot some ways you could make their life a little easier.

SLEEP

Try to keep their bed in the same place, where it is warm and calm. Opt for a bed with a non-slip base and medium-firm foam, ensuring easy and safe access. Establishing a bedtime routine that includes a toilet trip can help them wind down for the night. Monitoring your dog’s sleep patterns is also beneficial; any changes could indicate pain or be a sign of dementia, so it’s important to discuss these changes with us.

An orthopedic bed (designed to relieve pressure on their joints) can greatly improve sleep quality. Good sleep has been shown to not only help with general well-being, but to also help prevent ‘hypersensitisation’, an increase in the feeling of pain without changes to the cause of pain.

EXERCISE

Exercise is crucial for both physical and mental health, but excessive activity can be harmful to older dogs. Keep exercise sessions short and regular, avoiding large increases in activity on weekends. Although fun, the abrupt twists, turns, and stops involved in ball chasing are detrimental to joint health. Instead, opt for calmer games and retire the ball thrower.

When walking, a harness that supports the chest is preferable to a collar for older dogs. Pay attention to changes in step length, speed, and gait, as these can indicate pain. If you notice any changes in how your dog walks, have them checked by a vet.

For dogs with arthritis, physical therapy and hydrotherapy can help build muscle tone and support joints. Consult us for advice on the best therapies for your dog, as the type and duration of exercise should be tailored to their specific condition.

As much as you may wish to deny that your pup is getting older, once your dog starts showing signs of age-related health issues, they can be considered a senior dog, regardless of their true age.

Taking the time to make your home ‘senior-friendly’ is one of the best things you can do for your older dog. Along with regular health check-ups, and plenty of love, giving them a safe space helps ensure they have the happiest of lives.

STEM CELL BREAKTHROUGH IN EQUINE MEDICINE

Traditionally, stem cells have been used to treat tendon injuries, particularly in racehorses. These cells were usually harvested from the sternum of the injured horse and were expanded in a laboratory over 30 days for reimplantation into the site of the injury. This was used with variable success, largely as the number of stem cells harvested was inconsistent between individuals.

COMMERCIAL STEM CELLS

The brilliant news is that we now have commercial stem cells available which we can buy in for appropriate cases. This avoids the need for horses to undergo the painful harvesting procedure and, as the new stem cells are licensed, we can be sure that the vials contain the correct number of pure, mesenchymal stem cells for treatment to be as effective as possible. These cells can be used within joints for cases of osteoarthritis and can also be used in soft tissue injuries such as tendons and ligaments.

The stem cells are harvested from umbilical cord vessels of a particular donor herd. This herd undergoes many tests to ensure there is no risk of disease transmission through the cells harvested, hence why the cost of their production remains high (around £1000 per treatment dose for those interested).

The cells are collected in a completely ethical manner which involves no harm whatsoever to either the foal or the mare. The cells collected are termed ‘pluripotent’, meaning that they can convert into whatever cell is in the environment which they are placed within. It is becoming clearer that they promote gene modulation in the injured environment having both anti-inflammatory effects and impacts on the surrounding cells to improve the speed and quality of healing and repair.

SUCCESS STORY: MAX

If you follow us on social media (@OakhillEquineVets) you may have seen our posts about Max, the eventer who sadly suffered severe injuries to the superficial digital flexor tendon and suspensory branch of the forelimb following a 2* event. We implanted stem cells into both of these structures in 2022, and he’s just stepped back up to Intermediate level eventing as we speak which is incredible!

Image 1: an ultrasound image of Max’s tendon injury 2 weeks following the event. You can see the dark area representing significant tendon fibre disruption affecting approximately 50% of the tendon area (green arrow).

Image 2: an ultrasound scan just 4 weeks following stem cell implantation into the tendon! You can see that the cells have filled the defect very well, but there was still a long way to go to get to full healing.

THE IMPORTANCE OF REHABILITION

Some veterinary surgeons claim that if you use stem cells in these injuries, you can bypass a lot of the progressive rehabilitation work, however, we remain firmly of the belief that the horse should undergo gradual rehabilitation in the same way whether or not stem cells are used, as it takes time for the tissues to adapt, remodel and heal.

For us there is never a miracle quick fix with orthopaedic injuries in the horse: it’s always about the team approach using the best science we have available to improve the quality of repair with the long-term aim being to reduce the likelihood of reinjury and further time out of action for you and your horse.

LASER SARCOID SURGERY

Sarcoids are a relatively common skin complaint and can affect horses of all ages. Sarcoids come in multiple forms (6 types in fact!), ranging from flat (occult) sarcoids to a rapid proliferate type (fibroblastic). All areas of skin may be affected; however, the most common locations include the inside of the back legs, sheath, armpits and face.

As sarcoids are a form of skin tumour, they should be treated promptly and with respect. Fortunately, sarcoids do not spread to internal organs and what you see externally is what you get. There are many over-the-counter products people often try before consulting their vet but such measures delay the correct treatment of these tumours giving them a chance to increase in size and for more lesions to develop. This in turn, makes them more difficult to treat.

The two most common treatment options involve surgical removal through the use of a laser or the application of a chemotherapy cream. The best therapeutic option ultimately depends on the type and location of the sarcoid and this will be determined following veterinary examination.

We are fortunate to have been able to offer laser treatment of sarcoids at Oakhill for many years. Depending on the location, the sarcoids are removed by laser either under standing sedation or under general anaesthesia. We have certain cases in which laser surgery is combined with adjunctive treatments including chemotherapy creams or injectable chemotherapeutic agents.

The laser site generally heals rapidly following surgery and horses resume small paddock turn out within days of the procedure.

If you are concerned about any skin lesion on your horse, please do not hesitate to get in touch with one of our team.

TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED? (AND HOW?) IS THE QUESTION

For many of us, the thought of having our very own foal from our own mare is a recurring dream – but what does it take for that to become reality? And is it something we should be considering, for both our mare’s sake and our own?

PRE-BREEDING CONSIDERATIONS

Breeding a foal can be risky – normally, everything goes to plan, and the foal arrives safely and healthily, and mother is also well and suffers no ill effects from this. However, when it goes wrong, it can really go wrong, and in the worst-case scenario we may lose both mare and foal. Thankfully, this is rare, but it is a risk that should be seriously considered before deciding to breed.

Other considerations should include:

- Is the mare a good candidate to be bred from? Look objectively at her conformation and temperament. Often mares are put into foal due to lameness or other ridden issues, but if these are due to physical abnormalities then these may be passed on to their offspring.
- What am I looking to breed? This will influence your choice of stallion, and whether you breed at all.
- Am I in a position to have a mare and foal, both in terms of finances, and practicalities (e.g. yard set up, other youngstock etc.)?

Choosing a stallion
This is one of the fun parts! Try to choose a stallion that will complement your mare’s conformation and type. Looking at a stallion’s offspring already on the ground may give an idea of temperament.

Bear in mind health testing for certain genetic conditions – this is especially important in certain breeds. If you have any specific questions regarding these please ask one of our vets.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN NATURAL COVER, FRESH, CHILLED AND FROZEN AI?

Natural cover is just that – natural! This limits the choice of stallions logistically to those within a travelable distance for the mare. Many competing stallions, for example, may not offer natural cover due to the increased injury risk and the potential for it to affect their focus when competing. Some studs will cover in hand once the mare is in season, and others will allow the stallion to run with the mare for a period of time (the latter is more common in native pony types).

Fresh/chilled artificial insemination – this is where semen is collected from the stallion, and then placed either straight into the mare’s uterus (fresh) or mixed with ‘extender’ (think a little packed lunchbox of nutrients to keep the semen alive in transit) and then posted out to your mare. Chilled semen opens the options for stallions to be used from across the whole of the UK and even most of Europe. Typically chilled semen has a lifespan of around 48 hours from collection (although this will vary from stallion to stallion), so we need to time things carefully to ensure it arrives in time for the mare to be inseminated with it before she ovulates, but not so far in advance that the semen has died!

Frozen AI – this is the most tricky and time consuming, as once frozen semen has thawed it has a much shorter lifespan, and so we scan the mares ovaries much more frequently – normally every 6 hours – and then as soon as she has ovulated the semen is thawed and inseminated via a different type of AI catheter that allows the semen to be placed as close to the ovulating ovary as possible. As this technique requires much more scanning, and the access to a temperature-controlled water bath, liquid nitrogen tank etc., this is typically performed in the clinic rather than on yard. The plus points of frozen AI over chilled include an increased choice of stallions – including those who are deceased – and a lack of restriction on postage, for example over weekends/bank holidays/postal strikes (nightmare!).

THE FUTURE?

Embryo transfer is becoming more established within the UK and involves flushing an embryo from one mare and implanting it into a recipient mare. This is a useful technique for mares who are currently competing or cannot carry a foal themselves for health reasons. This is not something we currently offer at Oakhill (yet), but we can advise you on those who can help if this is something you are considering.

A newer emerging technique is one called ‘ovum pick-up’ where eggs are collected directly from the mare’s ovary, and ‘intra-cytoplasmic sperm injection’, where these eggs are injected with sperm. Once these develop into embryos they can be frozen, stored, and then placed into recipient mares when required. This technique is still in its infancy in this country but is likely to become more common in years to come.

WHAT DOES THE BREEDING PROCESS TYPICALLY ENTAIL?

If you choose to breed your mare by AI, then she will typically be scanned to assess where she is at within the oestrous cycle, and to check for any abnormalities that may reduce her ability to conceive and carry a foal. If she is not in season, then she may receive an injection to help bring her into season.

On subsequent scans, the size of any follicles on her ovaries will be measured, and her uterus assessed for oedema. Once we are happy there is a large enough follicle that looks like it will ovulate shortly, along with sufficient uterine oedema, then the semen can be ordered. In some cases, drugs to induce ovulation may be given.

As soon as the semen arrives, it is placed into the mare’s uterus, and the following day she may be scanned to check she has ovulated (if she hasn’t, it might be that more semen needs ordering!), and to check for fluid within the uterus, which can result due to the mare having an inflammatory reaction to semen/extender. If this happens, she may be ‘washed out’ with fluid, and/or antibiotics, to remove any dead semen and inflammatory fluid – but don’t worry, any swimmers that are winners will have reached the oviducts leading to the ovaries by this point and will be safe from us washing them out.

Then comes the long wait for pregnancy scanning – we typically recommend this to be performed 15/16 days after ovulation, as this enables us to check for twins. Unfortunately, twin pregnancies are very risky for mares, and so if there are two embryos, scanning at this point enables us to reduce one embryo, leaving hopefully just the one embryo. If she is in foal at this point, then we check again at 28-35 days to check that the foal is developing normally and by this point its heartbeat should be visible! Further scanning can be performed if there are any concerns after this stage.

It is important to remember that not all mares will become pregnant first time, just the same as with people, and sometimes it can take multiple attempts and further interventions and treatments may be necessary.

If you would like to discuss breeding your mare, please give us a call and ask to speak to Rob, Pete or Sarah

THE IMPORTANCE OF VETERINARY NURSES IN THE CARE OF YOUR PET

Oakhill’s team of qualified Registered Veterinary Nurses (RVNs) play a vital role in looking after your pet during their visits to us. Just like human nursing, veterinary nursing is a skilled and highly trained profession, with the patient’s welfare firmly at its heart.

They work alongside veterinary surgeons to care for sick and injured animals, ensuring the welfare, comfort and recovery of animals that have undergone trauma, surgery, or are receiving treatment for ongoing medical conditions.

WHAT DO OUR NURSES DO?

Whether your pet is visiting Oakhill to manage an ongoing condition, for routine surgery, or requires emergency care, veterinary nurses will be providing skilled nursing care throughout. While some of this work will be behind the scenes, especially if your pet is staying as an inpatient, nursing care provides an essential role in ensuring that your pet’s well-being is monitored throughout their treatment.

Here’s just some of the things Oakhill’s RVNs are responsible for:

Inpatient care – carrying out nursing care, while working with the veterinary surgeon in charge of the case. Like nurses in our NHS hospitals, they undertake a wide range of tasks such as administering medicine, managing wounds and monitoring intravenous fluids, as well as monitoring and taking care of the needs of the patient.
Diagnostic tests – most laboratory tests are performed in-house by our RVNs. Once the test is complete the findings will be relayed to the vet in charge of your pet, who will interpret the results and discuss them with you. Veterinary nurses are also trained to use a variety of diagnostic imaging tools, which can be a crucial aid to the vet while diagnosing illness or injury.
Surgical nursing and anaesthesia – RVN’s are trained to assist the veterinary surgeon both as part of the surgical team and monitor the levels of patient anaesthesia throughout the operation. This highly skilled and specialised work means they can recognise different stages of anaesthesia, along with potential problems. RVNs can also legally undertake minor surgical procedures, such as the suturing of wounds, as well as dental scaling and polishing, following assessment and removal of any damaged teeth by the vet.
Nurse clinics – just like at your GP surgery, our nurses provide regular clinics to support you with advice about a range of topics including, moving house, keeping your senior pet happy, caring for a puppy or kitten, managing chronic conditions, as well as monitoring pets with long term health conditions such as diabetes or obesity.

QUALIFICATIONS AND REGISTRATION

Veterinary nurses are trained to a high level, to enable them to work in all aspects of the practice environment, from reception through to the operating theatre. Training to become a veterinary nurse is challenging and requires lots of dedication. They must complete at least 1,800 hours of practical, hands-on experience, alongside writing assignments and sitting theory exams. This training is usually done over a period of around three years and can be either a vocational or work-based diploma via college, or a veterinary nursing degree at university.

Once qualified, RVNs are regulated by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS), which means they are professionally accountable for their conduct and must undertake continuing education, known as CPD, to maintain their status.

Their registration demonstrates to employers and to pet owners alike that they are keeping their skills up to date. Just like in human nursing, some RVNs will work in general practice, while others will take on specialised roles within referral practices in larger hospitals.

Veterinary nurses carry out technical work and are skilled in undertaking a range of diagnostic tests, medical treatments, and minor surgical procedures under direction of a veterinary surgeon. They will advise on keeping pets healthy and many provide their own nursing consultations and outpatient checks. There are also certain procedures which, by law, the vet can only delegate to RVNs. This means that the more technical areas of patient care, such as administration of some medications, and minor surgeries are only delegated to those who have the skills and knowledge to carry out the procedure safely.

British standards of veterinary nurse training and regulation are among the best in the world so you can be sure that your pet is in safe hands.

ARTHRITIS IN CATS: WOULD YOU SPOT THE SIGNS?

Just like in humans, osteoarthritis is a common condition in older cats, but one that is unfortunately often overlooked. Many symptoms are dismissed as simply ‘old age’. But whilst old age is inevitable, it isn’t a disease – it doesn’t cause pain or stiffness like arthritis does!

If you find yourself describing your cat as: ‘sleeping a lot now’, ‘not going out so much these days’, ‘grumpier than they used to be’, and ‘not as keen to cuddle’, have you considered that they may have arthritis?

WHY ARE CATS UNIQUE?

As any cat owner will tell you, cats are unique, and this is true for the way they show pain too. Dogs tell you when they are in pain by limping, yelping, and making sure that you know about it! Cats stop playing, cats stop grooming, and generally retreat.

Although they don’t shout about it, if you look you will see what your cat is telling you. Consider these common ‘old age’ changes in cats, and how they might be related to underlying arthritis.

Not as playful anymore – It’s just too painful to bother.
Spending less time outside – Getting through the cat flap is quite uncomfortable and climbing that tree is unthinkable.
Matted fur along their backs – This may be because it’s too painful to contort around to groom now.
Stop sleeping on your bed – It’s too much of a stretch to jump up there now.
Sleeping all the time – It’s simple: arthritis hurts when the joints move. No moving = no pain.
Overgrown claws – Their beloved scratching post hurts to use now.
Becoming grumpy – Being picked up and cuddled up like they used to be is quite uncomfortable, so they avoid it.

There are physical signs of arthritic cats too (e.g. muscle loss, swollen joints, stiff movements), but most of the signs are behavioural changes.

WHAT IS OSTEOARTHRITIS?

Every joint in your body is covered in smooth slippery surface made of cartilage. Over time, as the joints are used and abused, this cartilage can be worn down to reveal the underlying bone – ouch!

The bone tries to repair itself, but the new bone produced only adds to the problem; bony protrusions start to cover the joint rather than the glossy smooth cartilage. A once shiny, lubricant joint surface turns into something more akin to the surface of the moon.

TREATMENT OPTIONS FOR FELINE ARTHRITIS

Arthritis is unfortunately a progressive disease that will get worse over time, as the joint damage can’t be reversed. However, there’s still lots you can do to make living with arthritis easier, and less painful for your cat.

Modifying the environment – even small adjustments around the home can make a big difference to their quality of life. Ensuring easy access to food and water (avoiding elevated surfaces), placing a step near windowsills to ease jumping, providing cosy beds, maintaining warmth (especially in colder weather when arthritis tends to worsen), and opting for litter trays with low sides all contribute to a more comfortable life.

Medication – it’s crucial to seek advice from your vet regarding the most suitable medications for your cat. Various options to manage feline arthritis are available from daily pain relief to monthly injections. Don’t ever be tempted to give any human medication to your cat – paracetamol is highly toxic to cats and just a small amount will be fatal.

Weight management – excess weight adds unnecessary strain on sore joints. Achieving and maintaining a healthy bodyweight can be challenging, particularly as cats become less active with age. Speak to us for tailored dietary advice.

Joint supplements – incorporating omega-3 oils and glucosamine supplements into the diet may offer some benefits. However, since this industry lacks regulation, it’s important to be cautious of false claims. Additionally, don’t anticipate immediate results, as supplements typically require weeks or even months to take effect.

Promoting movement – adhering to the “little and often” principle is advisable for exercising cats with arthritis. Prolonged periods of rest can lead to very stiff joints, so gently encouraging regular, low-impact movement is beneficial.

SUMMARY

Cats can live a long time with arthritis, as long as their quality of life remains good. Recognising the signs and starting treatment early will keep them as comfortable as possible for as long as possible.

So, if you think your cat is getting old and lazy, consider that arthritis may be lurking, and speak to us!

ALTERNATIVE STRATEGIES FOR WORM CONTROL

Resistance to commonly used wormers in sheep has been reported since the 1980s but more recently resistant worms have been found on up to 100% of farms. Therefore, it is increasingly important to change how we use wormers to avoid selecting for resistance and to ensure that we continue to have these tools for the future. The recent testing requirements as part of the Animal Health and Welfare Pathway encourage farmers to identify resistance on their farm and therefore begin to understand how well their worming strategies are working. Following guidance from SCOPS (Sustainable Control of Parasites in Sheep) is important to make sure wormers are being used appropriately (see below); but what other options are there for worm control that don’t involve use of wormers?

There are 3 areas to consider when trying to reduce dependence on wormers: decreasing exposure to worms, increasing sheep resistance to infection and reducing the impact that infection has….

DECREASING EXPOSURE TO WORMS

Grazing management
Pasture can be classified as high or low risk in terms of worm burden based on previous grazing history (for example pasture previously grazed by lambs will be higher risk) and weather information. Risk can be reduced through use of rotational systems with cattle and hay/silage production. Utilise parasite forecasts to know when high risk periods are likely to be. Additionally, most worm larvae are found close to the ground so avoid overgrazing pasture.
Bioactive forages
Grazing certain plants such as chicory, birdsfoot trefoil, sulla and sainfoin have been associated with lower worm burdens in sheep. The reason for this is not fully known but may be due to high tannin levels in these plants or higher protein levels.
Reducing stocking density
Fewer sheep result in lower worm egg production and therefore reduced pasture contamination.
Management of lambs
Housing lambs for finishing means they are no longer exposed to worm eggs on pasture. The number of eggs on pasture increases through the grazing season, so aiming to grow lambs fast and get them off farm early means they are exposed to lower burdens.

INCREASING SHEEP RESISTANCE TO INFECTION

Nutrition
Ensuring adequate body condition will mean that sheep have the energy required to build an immune response against worms. Additionally, ensure there are no deficiencies such as cobalt or copper as this can reduce the immune response. Increasing protein levels in ewe diets around lambing can reduce the shedding of eggs and therefore pasture contamination for lambs.
Breeding resistant sheep
Some sheep seem to build stronger immune responses against worms and therefore have lower worm egg counts. Breeding from these sheep can improve the flock’s overall resistance. Individual worm egg counts at 21 weeks old has been shown to be a predictor of worm egg output in first lambing and lactation. Antibody levels in blood can also be used as a predictive value, and this can be used alongside WECs to select parasite resistant rams.

REDUCING IMPACT OF INFECTION ON SHEEP

Breeding tolerant sheep
Some sheep maintain high levels of production despite high worm burdens. Therefore, scoring sheep based on growth rates or dag scores may be useful to determine which animals should be bred from.

SCOPS PRINCIPLES

Use anthelmintics only when necessary: utilise worm egg counts throughout the grazing season prior to treatment
Administer effectively: dose to the heaviest animal in the group, store products correctly and maintain dosing equipment
Preserve susceptible worms: leave 10% of lambs untreated (for example well grown lambs with no scour are unlikely to require dosing), and avoid ‘dose and move’ strategies
Quarantine bought in stock: treat with an effective wormer and then delay turnout for 48 hours, quarantine from main flock for 28 days
Select the appropriate anthelmintic: test for resistance so you know which wormers are effective on your farm and avoid using combination products unless necessary

COW TRACKS

With turnout time upon us it is a good time to have a look at your cow tracks and ensure that they are in good repair to benefit both you and your cows.

Advantages of a cow track

A good cow track will ensure that your herd can move safely around your farm as well as improving cow flow, reducing lameness caused by claw damage, reducing field poaching, and improving cow cleanliness and udder hygiene. Effective cow tracks can even extend your grazing season by providing better field access as well as saving you money on treatments arising from issues with foot and udder health.

THE IDEAL COW TRACK

When installing or re-designing a cow track it is important to take into consideration cow comfort. The ideal cow track will have the below features:

Width: Dependant on your herd size the minimum width of the surfaced track should be between 4 metres (for herds of 200 cows) and 7 metres (for herds of 500 cows).
Layout: The track should run the shortest route from A to B. Not only will this save on track materials, but also the energy used by the cows that can be available for milk production instead. Avoid sharp turns, very steep sections (gradients ideal no more than 8%), and bottlenecks.
Surface: Should be free draining and quick drying, free of sharp grit and large stones as well as any material that could get trapped between claws. It should have good underfoot grip but not be overly abrasive. Ideally it should be cushioned for cow comfort. Some examples of cow track materials include oolitic limestone, sandstone, chalk, woodchips, or crushed stone or rubble stabilised with cement.

HOW TO MOVE YOUR COWS ON THE TRACK

Installing an effective track is vital, but it is just as important to keep in mind how cows want to move on a cow track. Cows need space to move their heads freely to allow them to place their feet safely and avoid more dominant cows, so ensure you give your cows space and do not force them to compact together.

As well as space, they also need time to rearrange themselves once they enter the parlour. The order they walk along the track is not necessarily the order in which they are milked. Dominant cows walk at the front of the herd and will not be over-taken by less dominant members of the herd, this means animals at the back of the group are under more pressure and tend to bunch at the back so avoid putting pressure on cows at the rear of the herd. Cows want to move forwards, only less dominant cows and heifers reverse when under pressure, you can avoid this backwards movement by increasing the distance between the herdsman and the herd when on the track.

DON’T FORGET THE NECESSARY PERMISSIONS!

If your track runs near a watercourse, and depending which material you choose, you may need to seek advice from the Environment Agency or Internal Drainage Board. Permissions from the landowner and local authority should be sought. Areas of historical significance or wildlife interest should be avoided.

CLOSTRIDIAL DISEASES

Clostridia are a group of bacteria that are commonly found in soil and in the digestive tracts of animals. They can produce toxins that cause a variety of diseases in farmed animals, and which can lead to sudden death in many cases. The bacteria can survive as spores in the environment for a long time and therefore preventing exposure is usually not feasible, and treatment of affected animals is typically unsuccessful. However, vaccines are available which provide protection against the toxins.

Clostridial vaccines generally require a primary course of 2 doses followed by an annual booster. For breeding females this booster should be in late pregnancy to provide protection for their offspring. Lambs and suckler calves will then need vaccination when the colostral protection runs out after 12 weeks.

Black Leg

Clostridial spores are ingested and travel from the gut to the muscle through the blood. Subsequent damage to the muscle (for example following trauma or excess exercise) can lead to toxin production. In sheep there is often a history of wounds, for example following shearing or tail docking. The toxins damage the muscle and spread in the blood leading to fever, inappetence and rapid death. Affected muscles are often massively swollen and may feel crackly when touched. Cases are commonly seen soon after turnout to new pasture and animals in good condition may be more likely to be affected.

Tetanus

The bacteria causing tetanus usually to enter the body through contaminated wounds, such as following tail docking, dehorning or castration. They then produce a toxin which attacks the nervous system, leading to rigid paralysis. Clinical signs include a raised tail, extended neck, lock jaw, difficulty walking, and bloat followed by death.

Botulism

Botulism is caused by direct ingestion of clostridial toxins which are usually associated with bird carcasses or poultry manure in feed. The toxins affect the nervous system leading to weakness which may progress to recumbency and death. In some cases, affected animals may recover, however often euthanasia on welfare grounds is required. Protection against botulism is not provided by multivalent clostridial vaccines and therefore a separate vaccine is needed for high-risk farms.

Pulpy kidney

Pulpy Kidney disease is frequently reported to be in the top 3 causes of lamb death. Lambs are found dead with no clinical signs. Vaccination of dams with a booster in late pregnancy provides protection for young lambs, and older lambs can also be vaccinated to provide ongoing protection.

Lamb dysentery

Lamb dysentery is another common cause of sudden death in lambs that can be prevented through vaccination with clostridial vaccines.

Black disease

In late summer/early autumn migration of immature fluke through the livers of sheep and cattle can trigger clostridial toxin production and lead to sudden death. Prevention relies upon clostridial vaccination and appropriate fluke control.

Other clostridial diseases such as big head in rams and other enterotoxaemias cause disease in a similar way to those mentioned above. Since all these diseases will often cause sudden death as the first clinical sign, and the bacteria are common in soil, vaccination is the only way to prevent losses. If one cow is saved every 16 years in a 100-cow herd the vaccine will have paid for itself!