Preparing your pet for firework’s season

Fireworks are a common phobia for pets as they often find the loud, unpredictable noise and bright displays of light very frightening. Even a seemingly confident pet can tremble and drool at the unfamiliar sounds.

Preparation is key

Preparation is all-important if dogs are to get through fireworks with the minimum amount of fear and stress. First you need to make a special place where your dog can get away from the sounds he fears. Most dogs will already have a favourite room to go to, in which case all you need to do is modify this place to make it even more suitable as a bolt hole.

Some dogs do not know where to escape and for these individuals, you need to create somewhere for them to hide. It is best to choose a room that is naturally quiet and has minimal numbers of windows. It is best to prepare the refuge as far ahead of the firework event as you can. Your dog must always be able to get to this place whenever he is frightened.

IN ADVANCE

Install a Dog Appeasing Pheromone (ADAPTIL) diffuser in your home, preferably close to or inside the dogs hiding place. This is a device that looks like an air freshener that you plug into a wall socket. It produces a smell that is like a chemical that your dog’s mother used to calm her puppies. It should be left operating 24hrs a day and if possible installed a couple of weeks before a known event. ADAPTIL makes dogs feel much more relaxed and confident when they might otherwise be stressed.
Put in lots of blankets for your dog to dig and burrow in, preferably placed in a corner where the dog has already tended to dig or hide. Include an old, unwashed piece of clothing e.g. woolly jumper, so that your dog can smell your scent and feel comforted by your indirect presence.
Try to minimise the amount of noise entering the bolt hole room from outside. The dog must not see the flashes of fireworks or lightening, so close the windows and use heavy curtains to make the room dark.
Bowls of food and water are essential and it is a good idea to make sure that your dog has emptied his bladder an hour or so before the fireworks start.
Leave a few special chews and things for your dog to eat in the hiding place in case he fancies something chewy to reduce his tension. However, do not be alarmed if he does not seem interested in them – some dogs are simply not interested in treats at a time like this.
Moderately loud rhythmic music with a good beat is an effective way to mask the fireworks from outside.
Get your dog used to going to the hiding place 2/3 times each day during the run up to a firework display by taking him there and giving him some food or a favourite chew. This will help the dog understand that this is a good place to go to.
Give your dog a large, stodgy, carbohydrate-rich meal in the late afternoon of the day. Pasta, mashed potato or overcooked rice will help him feel calm and sleepy as the night draws in.
Make sure your pet is kept in a safe and secure environment at all times so that he doesn’t bolt and escape if a sudden noise occurs.
It’s a good idea to ensure that your pet is microchipped and the details are up to date just in case they do bolt and escape.
For severe fears and phobias, medication is available and you could book an appointment to see your vet.

WHEN THE NOISES START

Do not over fuss or soothe your pet to relieve their fears, as it gives them the impression that there is something to be frightened of.
Do not get cross if they are scared as it will only make them more frightened.
Ignore the noises yourself and try to appear happy and relaxed.
If your pet is only mildly fearful, you could try to engage them in some form of active game. Try to appear happy and unconcerned. It can help if you play a game with another pet in the household because the frightened one may be tempted to join in.
If your pet is very frightened by the noises and cannot be encouraged to play, then take them to the hiding place and encourage them to stay there.

An Easter Warning

As Easter is approaching we will be enjoying the treats and flower that this encompasses however dogs and cats can become very ill if they ingest or come into contact with certain things.

Chocolate

During Easter we all enjoy eating some (a lot of) chocolate. Whilst for us it is a delectable treat, for dogs (and cats) if ingested, can cause life threatening illness. Chocolate contains theobromine that at toxic levels can cause vomiting, diarrhoea and shaking and can lead onto seizures (fits), heart issues and ultimately death. If you suspect your dog has consumed chocolate please ring the practice immediately as if treated early can reduce the risk to your dog.

Hot Cross Buns (raisins)

Raisins within hot cross buns can cause irreversible kidney failure and sadly death if consumed by dogs. Toxic doses vary and a very small amount can be deadly. If your dog has or even is suspected to have ingested raisins or grapes immediate veterinary treatment is indicated.

Bulbs

Easter is a time when spring emerges and our gardens and hedgerows are bright with colour from flowers. Certain flowers for example daffodils and hyacinths originate from bulbs buried in the ground. Dogs, especially puppies may be dig them up and may chew and ingest them. Toxicities can vary but usual signs of vomiting and diarrhoea are common. Veterinary intervention may be indicated so please contact the practice if you have any concerns.

Lilies

Lilies are highly toxic and extremely dangerous for cats and will cause kidney failure and sadly death. All parts of the lily is toxic i.e. stem, flower and pollen. The most common route of ingestion if through the pollen whilst grooming. Our advice would be to NEVER have lilies in a house where cats are present.

Anti-freeze

As the weather warms and people get out and about into their gardens and garages, cats have access to areas where chemicals such as antifreeze are stored. Antifreeze is sweet and is sadly enticing to cats which if consumed causes irreversible kidney failure. As cats are outdoor animals it can be hard to stop this however owners can alert unaware neighbours to keep chemicals such as antifreeze locked away from prying paws.

Anti-freeze poisoning in pets

As the weather gets colder many of us will use anti-freeze in our car engines, but while it’s convenient for us, it’s also very dangerous to our pets.

While many people may think, ‘why would my cat or dog go near anti-freeze?’ well, Ethylene glycol- the main ingredient in most anti-freeze brands has an inviting aroma and sweet flavour. Its appealing smell and taste often tempts animal into tasting it.

Anti-freeze is found in car radiators and some screen washes, but it is extremely toxic to both dogs and cats. As our pets like drinking from ditches, puddles and ponds, it could mean they’re prone to drinking water contaminated with anti-freeze. Anti-freeze can also be found in some inks and snow globes.

The active ingredient of many anti-freezes, ethylene glycol, is rapidly absorbed into the body after drinking. Within hours it causes severe kidney damage, which is very difficult to treat. In one report involving 25 cat cases, 96% of those affected died.

Signs & Symptoms

Some common signs of antifreeze poisoning in dogs and cats include:

Drunken behaviour
Euphoria/Delirium
Wobbly, uncoordinated movement
Nausea/Vomiting
Excessive urination
Diarrhoea
Rapid heart beat
Depression
Weakness
Seizures/Convulsions/Shaking tremors
Fainting

Treatment

If you suspect your pet has drunk some anti-freeze, it’s important you contact us ASAP. If your cat or dog is treated immediately after exposure it has a far greater chance of survival. However your pet will need intensive treatment. Tragically, the survival rate is very low if the kidneys have been damaged and poisoned pets often have to be put to sleep.

Prevention

Anti-freeze is one of the most life-threatening poisonings that vets see, but there is a safer alternative. Propylene glycol anti-freeze is more expensive but safe for pets and other wildlife. All anti-freeze products should be labelled to show its contents, so please check these before purchasing and avoid products with Ethylene glycol.

Keeping chocolate out of reach this Christmas

Christmas is a time where chocolate isn’t usually in short supply and with it being a very busy season, it’s easy to get swept up in the occasion and often forget about leaving advent calendars and chocolate treats lying around, but if your pet does manage to get hold of some chocolate it can endanger their health, sometimes seriously, and even innocent treats can be deadly.

The reason chocolate is poisonous is because it contains a chemical called theobromine and while we usually focus on dogs due to their appetites and their amazing ability to steal food, please note that this chemical is not only poisonous to dogs, but is also poisonous to other animals such as cats, rodents and rabbits.

Although any chocolate should be kept out of reach of your pets, it’s important to note that the darker and more expensive chocolate usually contains more theobromine, which can make the fancier chocolate more poisonous. Although white chocolate contains less theobromine and is less likely to cause chocolate poisoning, it’s still very fatty and can still make your pet ill.

If any of your pets do eat some chocolate, depending on their size and the amount they’ve consumed, initial signs and symptoms can be vomiting and diarrhoea. Chocolate is also a stimulant and can lead to your pet to become excitable, as well as developing muscle twitching, tremors, fitting and life threatening problems with their heart and severe cases can be fatal.

Over the Christmas period make sure that all chocolate is out of the reach, this includes chocolate decorations hung from your tree, advent calendars, boxes of chocolate put out on Christmas day, and one that many people forget is the wrapped chocolates under the tree (most pets have a great sense of smell and can easily get into these chocolate treats).

Although chocolate wrappers are not poisonous, they can cause an obstruction in the gut if eaten. This can be very dangerous and may require surgical intervention. Signs of an obstruction may include vomiting, lethargy, your pet being off their food, not defecating or finding it difficult to defecate.

If you think your pet has eaten some chocolate, please contact us for advice about what to do next.

Meet one of our latest patients..

cat swallowed kids toy

This adorably cheeky kitten is 12 week old Freddie!

He recently stayed at our Conway Drive practice after his owners noticed he wasn’t himself after chewing on a children’s toy.

foreign body cat preston and clitheroe

After blood tests, medications and fluids he was much brighter but still not back to his normal self and an ultrasound revealed a blockage in his intestines.

The blockage was caused by a foam letter that poor Freddie had swallowed. This is referred to as a foreign body and needed an exploratory laparotomy operation to find and remove it from Freddie’s intestines.

As you can see from the photos he was soon back to his normal happy self, playing with toys and wrapping our nurses around his paws!

The importance of Vaccinations: when should my kitten have its first vaccination?

Bringing a new kitten into your home can be a big step, but also very rewarding. Now you’ve decided you want to share your home with a new kitten, you have on average the next 14 to 15 years with your new feline friend.

Over this time frame a lot can happen that can affect your cats health, but there’s serious and common diseases that can be avoided.

Vaccinations

Having your kitten vaccinated is very important as it prevents against some serious and common diseases that can prove costly. It also prevents them from passing on diseases to other animals.

When it comes to getting your kitten vaccinated, in general, an initial vaccination course is made up of two separate injections three to four weeks apart. In the UK, most kittens have their first vaccination at nine weeks and the second vaccination at 12 weeks. After this, kittens and cats usually need ‘booster’ vaccinations every twelve months.

What do vaccinations protect against?

The vaccinations your cat receives will vary, but in the most part they cover a combination of serious and common diseases, which include:

-Feline Infectious Enteritis (FIE, feline panleukopenia, feline parvovirus)

-Feline herpesvirus (FHV-1) and feline calicivirus (FCV)- Cat flu

-Feline chlamydophilosis (Chlamydophila felis, feline chlamydophila infection)

-Feline leukaemia virus (FeLV)

These diseases are thankfully fairly uncommon amongst vaccinated animals these days, but this is mainly due to the widespread vaccination regime in operation. In areas where animals aren’t vaccinated, these diseases are very common and often fatal to the animals affected.

“I’ve read that annual vaccinations are a way for my vets to make money and are not needed”

Ultimately it’s up to you to decide if you want your cat to have annual vaccinations. Annual vaccinations are important as viruses change over time (think flu), by vaccinating your kitten/cat annually, this will provide them the best cover.

If you live in an area with low vaccination rates, many of the diseases listed above are still common. It’s heart breaking to see an animal die of a readily preventable disease and while they may have had their two vaccinations early on in life, they could still come into contact with new diseases that weren’t around then, this is why it’s important for your cat to keep up to date with annual vaccinations.

Are annual vaccinations expensive?

Annual vaccinations aren’t going to leave a hole in your purse; in fact they can prevent against any costly treatments.

Our 365 Care Plan which includes annual vaccinations* can be paid in easy and affordable monthly direct debits. (Click here to view the full 365 Plan).

Are kittens vaccinated when adopted?

This would depend entirely on where the kitten was adopted. Cat centres such as Cat Protection and the RSPCA will vaccinate a kitten or cat before they move to their new home.

If your kitten has come from a private breeder or anywhere else, it’s important to ask the person who has been looking after the kitten/ cat if they’ve had them vaccinated, if they say yes- make sure they provide you with a vaccination record.